Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Resurrection Bay Cruise

We left the campsite to get gas and propane only to find out that the person at the gas station who filled the tanks wasn't coming on duty until 10 a.m., give or take 15 minutes. Within 20 minutes of our pulling up. five Cruiseamerica rentals pulled in behind us. We then returned the RV to the campsite and walked two blocks to our cruise tour of the bay.

The day had dawned clear and not cloudy. After boarding the tour boat, we cruised out into the bay and immediately saw two sea otters cavorting to the left of the bow. About five minutes later, we saw a cliff full of nesting seagulls, some horned and tufted puffins floating in the water. Then the harbor seals and off by himself was a Stellar seal on a rock just big enough for him. All the cruising was a couple 100 feet from the shore line. Twice the captain moved into the cliff side and almost touched it with the ship, showing us how very deep the water is along them. Later we saw mountain goats really high up on the side of the mountain and bear which look like specks on the cliff sides. We also saw Common Murres, Cormorants, Kittiwakes, some Dall's porpoise (which look like baby orcas), and two bald eagles. We also enjoyed a buffet of prime rib, grilled fresh caught salmon, salad (really, really good), and dessert. I went back for seconds on the salad.

The Park Ranger on board who did the narrative about the widlife we were seeing also commented on what a beautiful day we were having which apparently is unusual for Seward. The views were incredible - towering cliffs, some with very tall spruce trees growing out of the cracks, rivlets of glacier melt plunging down the cliff face into the sea.

The ride got a little rocky when we crossed the mouth of the bay, but smoothed out again when we got closer to the cliffs on the other side. The high light of the trip was seeing the humpback whales surfacing. One came completely out of the water. They were way too fast to take a photo of, even though I tried. All I got was a shot of a big splash of water! All in all, it was a great day.

Iditarod Dog Sled

We left a little early to go up the road to Seavey's Iditarod Dog Sled place. Three sleds were hooked up to 14 dogs each. The dogs yipped and barked like they were saying "Pick me! Pick me!" The ride on the wheeled dog sled was about two miles through their property. Danny Seavey was our guide and told us about the dogs, their training methods, how his family came to move to Alaska in 1963, and how his father Mitch, who has won or placed in several races, decided to get into dog sledding. Danny has also won races.

Afterwards, we retraced our route to Moose Pass and took Highway 1 (Sterling Highway)to Homer on the other side of the Kenai Pensula. We were able to get a campsite right on the bay beside the Fishing Hole. Homer is big ships (no cruise ships) and fishing, fishing, fishing.

This Morning in Hope

Early this morning, I was able to get lots of photos of a mama moose eating tree twigs behind a RV across from our along the river bank. She had twins at her feet. They looked at me as if to say, "Surely, you have enough photos!"

On the way to Seward, we took the Exit Glacier road as a side trip. Eight miles later the road was blocked, "No Admittance". We had a heck of a time getting turned around as the right-hand side was filled with vehicles parked.

Arriving in Seward, we first visited the Alaska Sealife Center and the end of the main road in town and watched the Harbor seals play in their giant aquarium.

All along the harbor are about 400 city-owned RV and tent spaces. We got a space in the second one just one block from the main shopping district. It drizzled harder today, all day long. It didn't stop me from going uptown to shop, though. The True Value store is two floors of everything under the sun except groceries. They did have soda and snacks. Seward appears to be a couple miles long but only three blocks wide.

Musk Ox Farm and Hope AK

The Musk Ox Farm was very interesting. Their under layer of fur is very, very soft and is used by the Native women in remote communities to knit hats, snoods, and neck scarves in order to earn extra money. The cow produces one cup of milk a day for the calf who then manages to gain about a pound a day from it. After visiting the Musk Ox Farm near Palmer, we headed toward Anchorage in a drizzly rain and high winds. We decided to just pass up all but the Alaska Native Heritage Center because we are coming back through here in a few days. As it was a holiday weekend, we decided to stop early in Hope before continuing to Seward the next day.

We were seeing the Wrangle National Park and Copper Glacier from the Glenn Highway.
After getting a camp site in downtown Hope on the Turnagain Arm, we walked up the block and back to look at the old buildings. The few 'houses' there were about the size of four phone booths. As this town started because of a small gold rush in the area, that's all that was needed.

On the way down we stopped at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center where we finally saw two black bears who were scuffling and a moose with horns still on.

Along the Road to Palmer

Driving through Tetlin National Wildlife Refuge, we were seeing birds with a bright red head, black neck, and white body. Mixed in with them were black and white birds. We were still looking for moose but not seeing any. Unfortunely the most scenic part of the road was fogged in until Beaver Creek.

At Tok, we took Highway 1 (Glenn Highway) which at first was a much smoother road but then it too soon turned into another lumpy, bumpy one.

The route turned at Gakona Junction onto the Richardson Highway then back into Highway 1. Just before a bridge was a sign that said, "No Shooting from the Highway". I wonder what was being shot!

We saw a cow moose in a field. Then further down the road, a dead one was beside the road at the bottom of a hill. A littler further along at the next pullover /turnout was a small pickup with a busted windshield and crumbled right fender and a state trooper. the Glenn Highway follows along the Matansuka River which was dark gray and very shallow rapids. It looked very thick and nasty.

By the time we got to Palmer, the Musk Ox Farm had closed for the day so we got a campsite and will wait for it to open in the morning.

When we stay at a RV park, we find that cable TV means, to hook up your TV cable then raise your antenna until you get four or maybe five channels. In Montana, we got five channels, in the last one we got Max (porn movies), HBO (showiing You Kill Me and Transformers), Fox from Anchorage, and one other from who knows where. In Palmer we got regular over-the-air broadcasts: ABC, CBS, EI, and one very fuzzy channel but the sound was clear.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Heaving over the Heaves

We left Haines early this morning heading to Beaver Creek, YT. I started noticing that the mountains on the right were rounded on the top like the Blue Ridge with almost no snow on top, yet the mountains on the left were sharp edged like the Rockies with plenty of snow coverage.

Just north of Burwash Landing, we hit a long stretch of road that was lumpy and bumpy - really shook the RV no matter how slowly we went. We rocked side to side and up and down. It reminded me of the Minnow luching and bobbing in that stormy sea. We would hit a smooth patch of road for about half a mile then two or three miles of heave then some gravel patches before hitting a smooth patch again.

We crossed the border into Alaska and decided to stop for the night in Border City as this type of road continues for many, many more miles. Along the road, we've seen sections of drunken forest: trees (spruce?) with a very shallow root system because the soil layer is only a few inches deep. The trees grow like the others except they grow at an angle of about 10 - 15 degrees to the other trees and in all directions!

Tacky, Tacky Skagway

We left early and walked up the street which was so steep they had put four sets of steps in the sidewalk. I was looking for the bank to turn in all of these nichles and pennies I've accumulated so far this trip. The only bank in town didn't open til 10 a.m. We continued up Main Street looking for the canning factory tour. I found it about four blocks from the bench where Frank took a rest. It certainly didn't look it would be open for business any time soon. No signage, no phone number, nada.

We took the Chilkoot Fast Ferry over to Skagway at 11 a.m. The trip takes about 35 minutes. After we disembarked at the Small Boat Dock, the route into town took us past a RV park where the Cousins were! They must have taken the Marine Highway Ferry over yesterday. We then walked up Broadway to 7th Avenue to see the "Days of 98" show at the old Elks lodge. The cast told the story of Jefferson "Soapy" Smith, the number 1 con man during the early days of Skagway and the gold rush. The "floozies", Molly and Snaggle Tooth, took Frank up on stage, then upstairs to entertain him privately as they fought over him! After a few more skits, they brought him back and continued the gag. And, yes, I have photos and he has a certificate of appreciation.

After the show we stopped by the Red Onion Saloon but had missed the start of the show and tour of the upstairs bordello. I managed to get plenty of Alaska scrapbook stuff and souvenirs.

We ambled back to the harbor in order to catch the 6 p.m. ferry back to Haines. When we got there about 5:30, we saw it was sitting at the dock so we got on board. Within a minute, we left port! After we got back to Haines, we realized we must have gotten on a 'crew run' trip.

Overall, I believe we walked over ten miles total today.

Not a Drop of Gas to be Bought

This morning, we couldn't find a gas station in Whitehorse that would accept either the debit or credit cards. Other people (with Canadian issued cards) could get all the gas they wanted. We were finally able to get gas at a aconvenience store about five miles out of town. We still don't have any cell phone service.

When we went through customs about 40 miles from Haines, the officer said he is planning to visit his aunt Minnie Hightower in Titusville this summer!

We were heading south toward Haines when we saw an overturned car and several people trying to hook a cable to it to tow it out of the ditch.

We got to Haines about 2 p.m. and stopped at the visitor center. I walked a block up the hill to the library to swap three books and to use a ccomputer. After my hour was up, I returned to the RV. Then I went up the other hill about a block to Main Street to do some shopping and to stop at the IGA for a gallon of milk, then out the back door and down a flight of steps into the parking lot a block from the RV. A cruise ship was in town so all the stores were open.

We decided to stay at a campground along the waterfront. After we set up and ate dinner, that group of cousins went down the road behind us! We could tell it was them because they each had a bandana tied to the passenger side mirror.

Monday, May 19, 2008

Canadian Style Holidays

After visiting the Whitehorse visitor centre, we stopped at the real Canadian Superstore for some mushrooms, a green pepper and a block (8 oz) of cheddar cheese which I could not find! They had a thin sliced (24 slices) pack of cheddar but it was white, a lite mild cheddar brick, and extra old cheese which is white not yellow.

Then we went to KFC to get dinner. What a difference! The two or three piece dinner comes with fried (limp & with the skin on) and a salad choice. They only have traditional, no crispy, or rotisserie. I picked the slaw. Boy! They don't know what slaw is. Theirs is diced, all uniformly lime green with two little bitty pieces of ham thrown in. We then saw the WalMart which had a 'grocery shelf' and was closing just as I went in. Seems with the holiday tomorrow, all the stores were closing at 6 p.m. instead of their normal time of 10.

Liard Hot, Hot Springs

Shortly after leaving Ft. Nelson, we actually saw a black bear then nothing for miles! Approaching Liard Hot Springs, we stared seeing lots of deer and bison, some of it in the road. The highway is still winding and steep in places with some gravel places, and almost no traffic. We stopped for the night in Watson Lake arriving around 8 p.m.

No libraries are open til Tuesday because Monday is the Queen's Birthday holiday. We kept meeting up with a group of five cousins and their spouses (and Vernon and Janie from Houston) who all flew into Iowa to pick up brand new Winnebagos from the factory to drive them to Anchorage for the Great Alaskan Holidays company. We first met up with this group in Dawson Creek then spent the night at the same RV park.

Summit Lake is completely frozen still. Caribou were in the road less than two miles south of here. Muncho Lake is turquoise! For miles west of Watson Lake people had taken fist sized stones (plenty in the area) and spelled out names, initials in hearts, etc., along the cuts that were made to put the road in.

I went in the hot springs, but Frank wouldn't go. It was really, really hot! The steam was rising from the water even though it was a reasonably warm day. It felt sooo good. There is a hotel there. I'd love to spend a week just going into the springs several times a day.

Dawson Creek & Mile Zero

On Friday we headed toward Dawson Creek and the Alaska Highway (or Alcan). The winds have lessened quite a bit. We did the walking tour of the town - lots of murals depicting the history of the building of the highway. The highway is long and empty of vehicles or life of any kind. It's all trees and steep inclines and then an eight or ten percent downgrade for three or four miles with a couple of rough, lumpy sections.

We ended up in Fort Nelson for the night because I wanted to see the museum here and hopefully visit the library. Monday is a holidy in Canada. We are at MP 300. Although we are in Ft. Nelson, we don't have any cell service so I really don't know what time it is. The TV is Cable with New York ABC, Seattle CBS in addition to the Canadian Global News Network which I believe is out of Vancouver but it doesn't seem to ever show the time there!

Going West Again

Thursday we woke up to bright daylight thinking it must be at least 9 or 10 a.m. Then found out it was only 5:30!! We headed west on the Yellowhead Highway (Rt. 16) out of Edmonton toward Hinton where we stopped at WalMart and got stocked up a little on groceries. Talk about small store! The Canadian stores have what is called a 'grocery shelf' about like a 7-Eleven. I ended up at the Safeway (I thought they went out of business years ago) which was next door. Canada has a hefty deposit system in place: 60 cents on a gallon of milk, the same for a 12 pack of soda, 40 cents for a case of 1/2 litre bottles. Of course, you can get your money back when you take them to the Bottle Return. It's NOT in the store! It's somewhere out there in the vast prairie.

Then we turned north toward Grand Cache, then took Hwy 40 north to Grand Prairie. We keep seeing signs for wildlife in the road. So far we have seen 1 hawk with a rabbit and five mule deer. No moose or elk in sight!

We had to stop in Grand Prairie to wait out the very strong crosswinds that kept changing directions.

Some things we have noticed: Important Intersection signs, Dangerous Goods Route sign, washrooms.

Canada, Oh, Canada!

We headed to Calgary, Alberta, Canada, through Lethbridge. Crossing the border at Sweetgrass was a simple procedure. Three cars were ahead of us and we waited about ten minutes for our turn. After showing our passports, the Canadian Vehicle Insurance Certificate issued by our auto insurance company, and answering some questions, were told to have a safe trip and enjoy Canada.

We stopped in Lethbridge to visit the old Fort Whoop-Up (yes, that really is the name!) at the bottom of a very steep hill. We followed a school group in and found out the Fort wouldn't be open until the next day, but as we had come so far and needed to be on the road, we were allowed to shadow the children on their tour.

After that tour, we headed on up the road stopping at Head Smashed-In Buffalo Jump Interpretive Centre about ten miles west off the main highway. This Centre is built at the site of the last known 'jump' of its kind. It's built into the side of the mountain.

Calgary is a beautiful, growing city. I'd love to come up here one July to see the Stampede. Alberta is really Big, Big Sky Country! Moreso than Montana. A curiosity is that there are elk ranches. Also, now it's not getting dark until about 10 p.m. Who needs daylight savings time???

Red Deer, Calgary, Edmonton

After a few missed turns, we finally got over the bridge and out of Calgary toward Red Deer. Up the road we were astonished to find a rest area that had dry camping sites for a fee and washrooms with showers.

In Red Deer while looking for a bank to get some Canadian Cash, I spied a Michael's!!! Yes, I did go in to shop. When I asked for this week's sales flier I got a blank look. then a cashier said they only have a items on sale every other week so this week nothing was on sale. She then handed me a 'friends & family' coupon for 25% off my total purchases, and a coupon for 50% off one item starting this Saturday and good through next Friday, by which time we should be in Anchorage.

Arriving in Edmonton around noon and after several trips around the block, we were able to get into the scrapbooking store I had found online. The square footage is no as big as I had thought, but she had lots and lots of stamp sets, stickers, loose paper and coordinated its. Then it was on to Fort Edmonton which we found out wasn't going to open for three more day with a carnival.

Snow, Snow and More Snow

We woke up to a snow covered landscape - some time during the night the rain changed to snow and two inches covered the ground. Plenty of elk were in the campground nosing around the RVs and tents.

As we left White Sulphur Springs going North on US 89, the snow started coming down. We were crossing the Little Belt Mountains. The snow was wet and sticking but not to the roadway. We also encountered foggy conditions. Leaving Monarch at the foot of the mount range, not a snowflake in sight, none in the air or on the ground. But it started raining in spurts. We arrived in Great Falls, following the map and written directions, we still couldn't find the library so we got on I-15 north bound and stopped for the night outside Shelby about 60 miles south of the border crossing.

I can understand why Montana is Big Sky Country - miles and miles of nothing but blue sky and praire land as far as you can see

Leaving Yellowstone National Park

We were told that a mama bear with three cubs were in the Ox Bow Bend area and could be seen from the pullout. We couldn't find them! Early that morning we saw herds of elk and bison in the fields on the way out of Teton. Since arriving in Yellowstone, we've seen bison everywhere. I walked around one of the geyser fields on the raised walkway and came upon about six or seven bison just to the left, up close and way too personal! We then went to see Old Faithful. What a sight! The parking lot was only partically cleared and pile of snow were everywhere. It started drizzling while we were waiting for the 'show'. The forecast is for a low of 15 and high of 31 with a 70% chance of snow for tomorrow. These parks have plenty of pullouts to stop and see wildlife or visit the bubbling mud holes or small dormant geysers which are still hot enough to take your skin off or melt your boots.

We spend the night in the Mammoth Hot Springs Campground where there was plenty of evidence of wildlife activity. We had to be very, very careful where we stepped.

Grand Tetons and Yellowstone

We left Rock Springs for Grand Teton National Park this morning. Our first stop was at the Jackson visitor center then we took the road to Kelly which loped around and back to US 191. After leaving the Moose Visitor Center, taking Teton Park Road, and arriving at the Signal Mountain Campground, we decided to back track to the Gros Ventre Campground for the night then take US 191 north to Yellowstone. When we register at the campground, we were told to be very, very careful as both a mountain lion and a bear had been hanging around the area. We saw plenty of tracks and calling cards but no wildlife.

We had been seeing patches of snow since leaving Cheyenne. Here in Grand Teton, there are fields of snow from a couple inches to several feet deep. I took photos. The wind finally died down this evening. So far we have seen elk far in the distance, mule deer near the fences and bison coming toward us.

Way Out West

We had spent the night expecting to visit Buffalo Bill's Scout's Rest Ranch just outside N. Platte, NE, only to find out it wasn't going to open til 10 a.m., so we continued west on I-80.

When we arrived in Cheyenne, we followed the Internet directions to the visitor center but couldn't fin it so we stopped at the Museum of the Old West and got directions to the Cheyenne Depot in downtown where it's now located. From there we took the trolley ride around the town. Cheyenne is a community planned by the railroad which then sold building lots to any churches for $1 to encourage them to come to town. We returned to the museum to see the history of the Frontier Days Rodeo that is held the last ten days of July which is worked entirely by volunteers. Wyoming had the first woman governor and had already given women the right to vote in order to get enough voters to qualify for statehood. That worked against the state as it took over 20 years for the rest of the country to catch up!

We continued on to Laramie where we had enough time to see the Wyoming Territorial Prison where Butch Cassidy was a guest for a time. The locals believe it was for a crime he in fact did not commit. The History Channel is funding an excavation of the area that is being worked by middle school students. They have made some very interesting discoveries which are on display.

Wide Open Spaces

As we continued west on I-80, we encountered snowy rain which lasted about ten minutes. So far today, it has rained off and on and is getting colder. The only weather report we could get on the raio was that the high was to be 30 tomorrow with snowy rain and warm and sunny on Sunday but we don't know where that was for! We also started seeing herds of ponghorn antelope grazing alongside cattle in vast fields with not a building in site. We arrived in Rock Springs about noon and, because of bad weather, decided to stay put for the rest of the day by visiting the library, getting gas and propane. We will leave for the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone tomorrow morning. They are about 185 miles north of here.

Friday, May 9, 2008

Northwest to Alaska

A week ago, we were at home in Titusville. The first day was uneventful, then on Friday, heading northwest out of Tupelo, MS, on US 78 toward Memphis, we rant into really bad weather with a lot of rain and really hard, gusting crosswinds. Going down a hill, with abridge over a large creek, the wind started pushing us to the right toward the bridge railing – Frank is pulling the wheel to the left, we’re still going toward the bridge railing – like sliding on ice except you cannot steer into the slide – after some seconds (eternity), the wind let up enough for us to cross the bridge and go up the next hill.

SUNDAY:

When we arrived in St. Louis, MO, to see the Gateway Arch, AKA Jefferson Memorial National Park, we found that RV parking was along Leonor Street which is right on the Mississippi River which had flooded a couple weeks ago. Although the signs said reserved for RV/Bus parking, the spaces were filled by cars. We had to walk a little over ½ mile to the foot of the steps to the Arch. The entrances are at the ends of the legs of the Arch and everything is underground between the legs. We rode to the top in a five-person pod/tram car each of which had tractor-style seats and we sat knee-to-knee for the two minutes trip up and three minute ride back down. We stayed at the top for about ten minutes. The viewing windows were about four feet wide and twelve inches high with views to the east and west which were spectacular! When we got back down, Frank went outside to people watch and I went to see the movie about the construction of the Arch. Several times I thought I would have to leave because the movie was showing the workers outside the Arch with absolutely no safety equipment! The view from each stage of construction was sickeningly straight down. They didn’t even have on any safety gear while setting the keystone at 630 feet. Meanwhile outside, Frank was watching a driver who got ticked off because someone had blocked him in so he called the police who arrived, issued a ticket, then had the vehicle towed away. As we were walking back to our RV, we saw another officer writing tickets for every car parked on that part of the street where the NO PARKING signs were (about four blocks). To the north of the Arch is a parking garage for cars!

WEDNESDAY:

Now heading west through Nebraska on I-80. We were still experiencing very stiff crosswinds. Our cell phone locked up last night at 9:45: no LED light and none of the buttons worked. When I took it into a WalMart, the guy looked at it, turned it over, took the battery out, put it back in, and it worked!!! I thought it was toast and I would have to buy a pay-as-you-go phone for the duration of this trip! I didn’t think to ask him what “oo” meant on the display. After searching through the Nokia book, I found that this meant I have messages. DUH!!!! It was Hannah and Hope singing “Happy Birthday” to Grandpa.

THURDAY:

Today we got off I-80 to go about 20 miles south to the Harold Warp Pioneer Village in Minden, NE. This is over 20 acres of the most amazing collection of collections! Some exhibits were hands on so you could see how they functioned. The broom maker demonstrated his craft, the lace maker show how she made the lace items; another woman was stripping denim pieces for the rug weaver while another woman was spinning the yard used to hold it all together. All the items they made are sold in the gift shop to help fund this museum.

One building house appliances from the 1830s to the 1970s showing on two floors the evolution of labor-saving devices: ice chests to ice boxes to refrigerators. Another building was devoted to all types of collections from advertising pens and pencils to salt and pepper sets to stamps, coins, shells. Several buildings contained cars of every kind, buggies and wagons, even a 1937 Vagabond camper! Almost all the vehicles showed a copy of the original title and ad with price listed. Very few of these items on display were donated. Mr. Warp purchased all of them.

We continued west on US 30 to Holdrege to see the Nebraska Praire Museum, the highlight is a section devoted to Camp Atlanta and the other similar camps which housed German POWs from 1943 until the war was over. They were encouraged to take jobs in the area to help fill the void left by the local men in the service. They made many friends in the area during that time. We returned north to I-80 and continued west toward Cheyenne, WY.