Saturday, June 28, 2008
Fruita, CO
We stopped in Fruita, CO, for the night. Then took US 50 east off I-70. Colorado has much more desert than I realized. I had assumed it would be mountainous and greener than it is so far. We're hoping to reach Pike's Peak this evening.
Goblins, Goblins Everywhere!
Today we travelled along I-15 north to I-70/US 50 to see Goblin Valley State Park, about an 80 mile side trip. What a sight! One we named "Bertha Butt" who looked like she was hugging another rock. The man who had owned the property until the state bought it from him called it Mushroom Valley. The wind has shaped these formations in the same way the Arches near Moab where we went next. Most areas along the 48 mile route were a long walk or hike to get a good look at the formations and we only did half the park. The campground, with no hookups, was full so we went on down the road to Grand Junction, CO, to stay in a regular RV park with t least electric so we could have a/c. This was the first time we couldn't get a space when we would have liked.
At the Arches where the parking lots are very small, we saw again many cars and pickups parked in the few spaces for RV/travel trailers while car spaces were empty. To us, that's as bad as taking a handicap space! We waited and waited behind another couple in front (and I do mean right up against) an information plaque where there was a choice of two trails. They stood there and discussed which trail would be better, or should they take the one to the left or to the right, or do one first then do the other one, when Frank asked them to step aside so others could read the sign. They got all huffy. (Updated 8/18/08: We saw in last week's paper that Delicate Arch fell sometime Monday night or Tuesday morning. What a shame!! All the signs and the rangers said that the park was a work of nature which won't let up on the 'work')
When we stopped to pick up some milk and other stuff at WalMart, I noticed all the margarine and butter sticks were the short chunky ones like we saw in Canada. Will they fit on my butter dishes?
We left Arches on US 285. This road follows along the side of the Colorado River which was almost in a flood stage and moving very rapidly along. This part of the river is through a beautiful red rock canyon. As we exited the canyon into a very wide valley, the wind really picked.
As I started fixing dinner, I had to wash some more Alaska/Canada Top of the World Highway dust out of the pans! This dust has a certain odor and is reddish tan in color.
At the Arches where the parking lots are very small, we saw again many cars and pickups parked in the few spaces for RV/travel trailers while car spaces were empty. To us, that's as bad as taking a handicap space! We waited and waited behind another couple in front (and I do mean right up against) an information plaque where there was a choice of two trails. They stood there and discussed which trail would be better, or should they take the one to the left or to the right, or do one first then do the other one, when Frank asked them to step aside so others could read the sign. They got all huffy. (Updated 8/18/08: We saw in last week's paper that Delicate Arch fell sometime Monday night or Tuesday morning. What a shame!! All the signs and the rangers said that the park was a work of nature which won't let up on the 'work')
When we stopped to pick up some milk and other stuff at WalMart, I noticed all the margarine and butter sticks were the short chunky ones like we saw in Canada. Will they fit on my butter dishes?
We left Arches on US 285. This road follows along the side of the Colorado River which was almost in a flood stage and moving very rapidly along. This part of the river is through a beautiful red rock canyon. As we exited the canyon into a very wide valley, the wind really picked.
As I started fixing dinner, I had to wash some more Alaska/Canada Top of the World Highway dust out of the pans! This dust has a certain odor and is reddish tan in color.
Hoover Dam
It was 115 degrees at Lake Mead. We both drank two large bottles of water during our tour of Hoover Dam. The a/c in the gift shop and the restaurant was probably set at 90 degrees. We were both wiped out by the time we returned to the RV hours later.
A new highway with a bridge which the tour guide said would be the tallest in the world is being built so traffic an avoid the road across the top of the dam. Traffic is at a crawl due to the crowds now visiting the dam because a visitors center with IMAX theater, gift shop, and restaurant was completed about eight years ago thereby increasing tourist traffic by thousands a year. Several pedestrian crosswalks back and forth on the dam require traffic to stop.
On the way back, our driver pointed out a large herd of antelope lounging around the Boulder City Park.
A new highway with a bridge which the tour guide said would be the tallest in the world is being built so traffic an avoid the road across the top of the dam. Traffic is at a crawl due to the crowds now visiting the dam because a visitors center with IMAX theater, gift shop, and restaurant was completed about eight years ago thereby increasing tourist traffic by thousands a year. Several pedestrian crosswalks back and forth on the dam require traffic to stop.
On the way back, our driver pointed out a large herd of antelope lounging around the Boulder City Park.
Yet Another Hole in the Ground
We took a slight detour south off US 50 to see Great Basin National Park and to tour the caverns. The park is really for hikers and people in cars as the road to the highest peak, Wheeler, was not recommended for any vehicle over 24 feet as the road is so narrow and curvy. Even the parking lot at the cave entrance was small. Tours are limited to 20 people. The guide talked about the original entrance which was a 20 some foot drop on a rope then a tall ladder then some rock steps down into the tunnel to the main cave. He told us about the locals having dances down there and the Boy Scouts having camp outs. The fires they had to have darkened the walls somewhat. The Park Service took it over in the 1950's and even then allowed the Scouts to camp.
The guide also pointed out that the drapery stalactites made a sound and that the Park Rangers would demonstrated the different tones until someone finally realized that this was damaging the stalactites. I told him about the Luray Caverns organ which he had never heard of.
The guide also pointed out that the drapery stalactites made a sound and that the Park Rangers would demonstrated the different tones until someone finally realized that this was damaging the stalactites. I told him about the Luray Caverns organ which he had never heard of.
The Loneliest Road
Leaving Carson City on US 50, we headed east. I was unable to find a "Loneliest Road Survival Guide" booklet until we were almost out of Nevada in Ely. If I'd had it from the furthermost point west, I would have been able to get it stamped at each place and sent it in for the certificate. Oh, well.
Ely is a very nice small county seat right in the mountains of eastern Nevada just about 100 miles from Utah. They really trade on the Route 50 gimmick. Lots of murals are around town depicting the history of the area. The BLM has a garnet mining site just west of town but yesterday it was too hot to be out in the sun digging. This mine is not a cave or tunnel but a hillside and open area and it's bring your own tools and water for washing the stones.
Just outside Middlegate, we saw another shoe tree - the only tree within miles and miles in a small pull out. We have also been seeing a lot of signs for calling 911 out in the middle of no where and, of course, no cell phone signal! This highway has no utility poles in sight or billboards, a truly scenic road.
Ely is a very nice small county seat right in the mountains of eastern Nevada just about 100 miles from Utah. They really trade on the Route 50 gimmick. Lots of murals are around town depicting the history of the area. The BLM has a garnet mining site just west of town but yesterday it was too hot to be out in the sun digging. This mine is not a cave or tunnel but a hillside and open area and it's bring your own tools and water for washing the stones.
Just outside Middlegate, we saw another shoe tree - the only tree within miles and miles in a small pull out. We have also been seeing a lot of signs for calling 911 out in the middle of no where and, of course, no cell phone signal! This highway has no utility poles in sight or billboards, a truly scenic road.
Oregon Scenic Route
On an Oregon scenic route, US 395, going south, we saw hundreds of butterflies swarming in the pullout near a creek in a hurry to get somehere. Then about 40 miles south of Burns was all desert, sandy, and dunes. We saw a large herd of antelope just before Valley Falls then more further down the road, There was a heavy haze from the California wild fires hanging over the mountains.
Crossing the state line into California, the gas prices dropped about 20 cents a gallon. We saw a shoe tree in a small pullout about 40 miles north of Sparks, NV. It was full of what looked like tied together basketball shoes. Must have been at least 100 pairs hanging from the limbs, and a 100 more caught in the crotch.
We coasted through Reno, looking but not finding the famous arch. As there was too much traffic, we continued south on US 395 to Carson City. I really liked Carson City but their library sucked! This is the state capital and the library can't afford decent computers???? The mouse had the cursor all over the screen and you could not control it, and they are on dial-up for crying out loud!!!
We went on down the road to have a look at Lake Tahoe. There was so much traffic and very, very long traffic lights. Vehicles were parked on both side of the road and were being ticketed so we turned around and returned to Carson City without getting a good look at the lake. It probably would have been possible if we had been in a car but a 29-foot RV just doesn't go some places.
Crossing the state line into California, the gas prices dropped about 20 cents a gallon. We saw a shoe tree in a small pullout about 40 miles north of Sparks, NV. It was full of what looked like tied together basketball shoes. Must have been at least 100 pairs hanging from the limbs, and a 100 more caught in the crotch.
We coasted through Reno, looking but not finding the famous arch. As there was too much traffic, we continued south on US 395 to Carson City. I really liked Carson City but their library sucked! This is the state capital and the library can't afford decent computers???? The mouse had the cursor all over the screen and you could not control it, and they are on dial-up for crying out loud!!!
We went on down the road to have a look at Lake Tahoe. There was so much traffic and very, very long traffic lights. Vehicles were parked on both side of the road and were being ticketed so we turned around and returned to Carson City without getting a good look at the lake. It probably would have been possible if we had been in a car but a 29-foot RV just doesn't go some places.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
After getting sorted out this morning, we continued south on Highway 1 until we got to Hope,BC where we took Route 3, the Crow's Nest Highway. About twenty miles west of Princeton, we came around a mountain curve to find a ground hog draped over the top of a concrete roadside barrier looking out over the valley as if he was trying to decide if he had enough time to go down and get back before dark. He was completely ignoring traffic.
When we crossed the border, the Agra Inspector came into the RV looked in the back, shower, the bottom of the refridgerator, and the cabinet over the sink, asking about fresh meat and produce purchased in Canada.
Down through central Washington are miles and miles of fruit orchards, apples, peaches, cherries, and many vineyards.
When we stopped, a sparrow flew into the RV through the open driver's window. We stopped for pizza in Burns, OR, at Jolly times Restaurant and BBQ/Hamburgers/Salad Bar. It was the world's best pizza!!!
When we crossed the border, the Agra Inspector came into the RV looked in the back, shower, the bottom of the refridgerator, and the cabinet over the sink, asking about fresh meat and produce purchased in Canada.
Down through central Washington are miles and miles of fruit orchards, apples, peaches, cherries, and many vineyards.
When we stopped, a sparrow flew into the RV through the open driver's window. We stopped for pizza in Burns, OR, at Jolly times Restaurant and BBQ/Hamburgers/Salad Bar. It was the world's best pizza!!!
Another Slow Day
Another slow day on the road, We reached Quesnel and found the Pinnacles Provincial Park where there are hoodoos. After traveling up a steep hill for about ten minutes, we reached a very small parking lot. I then walked about a half mile up a trail to the cliff edge to see the formations. Fortunately for me, the cliff side was fenced so I could lean over it to take picturres without fear of falling over the edge. Unfortunately, most of the view was obstructed by trees and bushes. Then it was one half mile back to the parking lot. Along the way I thought about bears, but decided no warning signs were posted so I was perfectly safe. As we were going back down the road and almost back to town, a young black bear knocked over someone's garbage can and ran across their lawn into the woods carrying their bag of trash.
We ended up in Cache Creek for the night as a bad storm was coming into the area. It seems that all the campgrounds we have been in are just parking slots, some are a foot or two wider than others, and all are without any spare space.
We ended up in Cache Creek for the night as a bad storm was coming into the area. It seems that all the campgrounds we have been in are just parking slots, some are a foot or two wider than others, and all are without any spare space.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Laundry, etc.
Today was a laundry, dump the holding tanks, and visit the library day. Doing laundry in a laundramat in Canada is expensive: three loonies a load to wash (three loads of clothes) $9 CA;
no sheets washed today, then 2 loonies a load to dry ($4 CA) and then the clothes aren't quite dry.
The library here was a very modern structure with wide spiral concrete staircase up from the underground garage to the main level, then up another wide staircase to the computers. The whole place was airy and spacious. About fifteen minutes into my time on the internet, the computer locked up, so I got another visitor access number and got a full hour again.
no sheets washed today, then 2 loonies a load to dry ($4 CA) and then the clothes aren't quite dry.
The library here was a very modern structure with wide spiral concrete staircase up from the underground garage to the main level, then up another wide staircase to the computers. The whole place was airy and spacious. About fifteen minutes into my time on the internet, the computer locked up, so I got another visitor access number and got a full hour again.
A Slight Detour
Although we hadn't planned to do so, we took a detour down to Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK, for the glacier and bear watching opportunities. We did see a couple hanging glaciers as well as Bear Glacier. Stewart has about 600 people living there mostly workers at the docks. Hyder has less than 100.
After talking to the lady who owns the Boundry Gallery and Fudge store in Hyder, we vetoed the trip up to Salmon Glacier. She said that she has been up there several times in all the years she has lived in Hyder and that it's really an all day trip as the road is very rough.
We returned to the Cassiers Highway (Rt. 37) and headed south to get on the Yellowhead Highway toward Prince George. We saw two black bears miles apart then a mama fox with junior running across the road in Vanderhoof. Mama made it to the other side, junior chickened out half way across and bolted back the way he had come.
After talking to the lady who owns the Boundry Gallery and Fudge store in Hyder, we vetoed the trip up to Salmon Glacier. She said that she has been up there several times in all the years she has lived in Hyder and that it's really an all day trip as the road is very rough.
We returned to the Cassiers Highway (Rt. 37) and headed south to get on the Yellowhead Highway toward Prince George. We saw two black bears miles apart then a mama fox with junior running across the road in Vanderhoof. Mama made it to the other side, junior chickened out half way across and bolted back the way he had come.
Cassiers Highway South
Today we started down the Cassiers Highway. Frank saw a timber wolf that was checking out the campground this morning. This was also a badly damaged road in places. It took us about three hours to get to Jade City where most of the jade in North America is mined. I shopped for birthday and Christmas presents. Saw a grizzly playing along the road side. On a short stretch of road just before we got to Meziadin, we saw eleven black bears. I managed to get some photos. Unfortunately, some are blurred.
We got a campsite in Meziadin Lake Park for the night, right on the lake.
We got a campsite in Meziadin Lake Park for the night, right on the lake.
Monday, June 9, 2008
The Northern Lights
Just east of Whitehorse at a boat launch, hundreds of birds were diving to the river bank then flying back to the side of the bridge and building mud nests. Strange sight.
Retracing our route to Watson Lake, we got into town to the library only to find it had closed that Friday at 4:30 and didn't open on Saturday until 1 p.m.
This time the Northern Lights show was open. It was in a planetarium style auditorium with seats that are reclined so you're looking at the domed ceiling where all the action takes place. I hadn't realized the Aurora Borealis is always there circling both poles. It's just not visible unless it's really dark and usually not seen at all every below the 30th parallel - so they claim! I know we have seen it in northern Virginia in the winter when the sky has been really dark and clear...mostly it's like a white streaky looking cloud with some blue or pink threaded though it.
Retracing our route to Watson Lake, we got into town to the library only to find it had closed that Friday at 4:30 and didn't open on Saturday until 1 p.m.
This time the Northern Lights show was open. It was in a planetarium style auditorium with seats that are reclined so you're looking at the domed ceiling where all the action takes place. I hadn't realized the Aurora Borealis is always there circling both poles. It's just not visible unless it's really dark and usually not seen at all every below the 30th parallel - so they claim! I know we have seen it in northern Virginia in the winter when the sky has been really dark and clear...mostly it's like a white streaky looking cloud with some blue or pink threaded though it.
Back in Whitehorse
We're back in Whitehorse to tour the S.S. Klondike, take a Yukon River Cruise, and to finally see the Frantic Follies show. The cruise started a little late as there were 46 passengers on board and regulations only allowed 40, so six people had to get off. Somewhere, somehow, somebody sold too many tickets.
This part of the Yukon River was dramatically changed when the power dam was built in the 1950's. It raised the river level over 25 feet and eliminated the rapids where the stampeders lost their supplies and sometimes their lives. The tour took us about ten miles up river and back. We saw a raven's nest on the cliff side with only one baby left in it. Here also is where the only bridge across the river was built in 1902. It has never been replaced and is still used by hikers. Coffee was served correctly! They made it in a camp pot and had evaporated milk to go with it.
When I got some groceries later that day at the real Canadian Superstore, I took a stroll through the bakery section. I have to tell Margie Primavere they sell a huge pull-apart bun/roll filled with garlic, green and red peppers, Italian spices and topped with melted cheese. Yummy!!!! It'll go great with a spaghetti dinner.
This part of the Yukon River was dramatically changed when the power dam was built in the 1950's. It raised the river level over 25 feet and eliminated the rapids where the stampeders lost their supplies and sometimes their lives. The tour took us about ten miles up river and back. We saw a raven's nest on the cliff side with only one baby left in it. Here also is where the only bridge across the river was built in 1902. It has never been replaced and is still used by hikers. Coffee was served correctly! They made it in a camp pot and had evaporated milk to go with it.
When I got some groceries later that day at the real Canadian Superstore, I took a stroll through the bakery section. I have to tell Margie Primavere they sell a huge pull-apart bun/roll filled with garlic, green and red peppers, Italian spices and topped with melted cheese. Yummy!!!! It'll go great with a spaghetti dinner.
Tetlin Junction, Past Chicken, and Top of the World Hwy
The route from Tetlin Junction through Chicken, AK, to Dawson City, YT was 168 miles. We expected about 40 miles to be packed earth and gravel. What we got was dust and dirt for over 100. miles. Chicken is a very quirky community. The post office is up the hill off the main road to the left beside the landing strip. All the mail if flown out on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The rest of the town is in three different driveways. There are two RV parks, two restaurants, three stores, two gas stations, a bar, a mining operation, a barbershop open only on Saturdays, and 21 residents who have to leave around October 1 and can come back after April 1.
The Top of the World Highway over the border into Dawson City has outstandingly fantastic views. You feel like you're on the top of the world. You can see mountain range after mountain range for miles and miles.
Just before Dawson, the road ends in a steep downgrade to a small ferry. It's a short ride over the Yukon River to town. I was expecting something different in Dawson - they are working on being a frontier town - I think I was expecting a more gold rush era look to everything (and maybe I got what I wanted except not what I thought the gold rush era was really like!). The show at Diamond Tooth Gertie's was not the 1890's vaudeville they are advertising. It was 30 minutes of songs from the era, one can can, and the rest was more like a modern Broadway musical and with modern costumes without any story line.
When we got into town and were setting up in the RV park, we discovered about a bucket of dirt all over the bed, the drawers of the closets, and carpet. It got into the oven, and the shower. Some how the seal or screws holding a panel on got loose and that was enough to let in massive amounts of dust. I don't think we will ever get it all out. All our clothes and the bedding had to be washed, then we needed to be washed, and all the upholstery pieces, including the window cornices, had to be vacuumed. I can still smell it and I tasted it in my dinner. All the pots and skillets had to be washed.
AND the cell phone died again. I've taken the batter out three times and putting it back in. It still won't work. No service in Canada, but I thought it would still show me the time and the amount of batter life left.
The Top of the World Highway over the border into Dawson City has outstandingly fantastic views. You feel like you're on the top of the world. You can see mountain range after mountain range for miles and miles.
Just before Dawson, the road ends in a steep downgrade to a small ferry. It's a short ride over the Yukon River to town. I was expecting something different in Dawson - they are working on being a frontier town - I think I was expecting a more gold rush era look to everything (and maybe I got what I wanted except not what I thought the gold rush era was really like!). The show at Diamond Tooth Gertie's was not the 1890's vaudeville they are advertising. It was 30 minutes of songs from the era, one can can, and the rest was more like a modern Broadway musical and with modern costumes without any story line.
When we got into town and were setting up in the RV park, we discovered about a bucket of dirt all over the bed, the drawers of the closets, and carpet. It got into the oven, and the shower. Some how the seal or screws holding a panel on got loose and that was enough to let in massive amounts of dust. I don't think we will ever get it all out. All our clothes and the bedding had to be washed, then we needed to be washed, and all the upholstery pieces, including the window cornices, had to be vacuumed. I can still smell it and I tasted it in my dinner. All the pots and skillets had to be washed.
AND the cell phone died again. I've taken the batter out three times and putting it back in. It still won't work. No service in Canada, but I thought it would still show me the time and the amount of batter life left.
Observations and Other Issues
Our first stop of the day was to find Drixoral for my sinus problem but we were unable to find any.
Then we stopped at the library to catch upon emails, this blog, and our finances. I had to wait a hour for a computer for the first time since being on this trip. This is the main library in town and is beautiful. It has several stain glass panels by local artists. A "quiet room" with about 15 upholstered chairs with swing-away arms intended for use by people with lap tops. The room also has a huge stone fireplace (and it looks used) with large windows on either side.
We're seeing more and more moose but mostly they are too far away to get any photos. Many of the gift shops and stores sell genuine moose nugget jewelry and other tacky items. On the way up, we saw many, many espresso huts no bigger than about four phone booths out in the middle of nowhere, a Thai food and BBQ cafe in Cooper Landing, turquoise rivers and lakes, and about twenty miles south of Fairbanks, we saw a white sofa filled with stuffed bears sitting on top of a road cut. We stopped for some groceries and noticed ham, cheese and macaroni loaf lunch meat, and Ice Java syrup for milk. We couldn't find any ham salad...just got strange looks. If a sign says, "Stop of Interest Ahead", it means an informational plaque of historical event.
Later we drove on down to North Pole, AK. So we are officially on our way home. We stopped for the night at Big Delta State Park. We didn't travel many miles today. Also the temperature is getting significantly warmer.
Then we stopped at the library to catch upon emails, this blog, and our finances. I had to wait a hour for a computer for the first time since being on this trip. This is the main library in town and is beautiful. It has several stain glass panels by local artists. A "quiet room" with about 15 upholstered chairs with swing-away arms intended for use by people with lap tops. The room also has a huge stone fireplace (and it looks used) with large windows on either side.
We're seeing more and more moose but mostly they are too far away to get any photos. Many of the gift shops and stores sell genuine moose nugget jewelry and other tacky items. On the way up, we saw many, many espresso huts no bigger than about four phone booths out in the middle of nowhere, a Thai food and BBQ cafe in Cooper Landing, turquoise rivers and lakes, and about twenty miles south of Fairbanks, we saw a white sofa filled with stuffed bears sitting on top of a road cut. We stopped for some groceries and noticed ham, cheese and macaroni loaf lunch meat, and Ice Java syrup for milk. We couldn't find any ham salad...just got strange looks. If a sign says, "Stop of Interest Ahead", it means an informational plaque of historical event.
Later we drove on down to North Pole, AK. So we are officially on our way home. We stopped for the night at Big Delta State Park. We didn't travel many miles today. Also the temperature is getting significantly warmer.
Artic Circle Trip #2
We got back to the RV about 11 p.m. - still broad daylight. During the whole trip my nose ran and my head stayed stuffed up, my eyes felt squeezed and blurry. This was even though I had taken medication the day before and on the trip. I had my own person trash bag.
Our driver, Laura, explained that in some areas of Alaska especially around Fairbanks, people have problems getting good water or getting their land to perk for a septic system so if you're not on city utilities, you dig an outhouse hole. She and her husband are building a new house where they will have to have the water tanker bring them about 15,000 gallons every three months. They spend their weekends digging their outhouse hole. Five inches down they hit permafrost and have to wait as a few more inches thaw, then they will dig that out, wait for another couple inches to thaw, then dig until they get past the permafrost. So all those beautiful homes along the river probably have to use outhouses!
Our driver, Laura, explained that in some areas of Alaska especially around Fairbanks, people have problems getting good water or getting their land to perk for a septic system so if you're not on city utilities, you dig an outhouse hole. She and her husband are building a new house where they will have to have the water tanker bring them about 15,000 gallons every three months. They spend their weekends digging their outhouse hole. Five inches down they hit permafrost and have to wait as a few more inches thaw, then they will dig that out, wait for another couple inches to thaw, then dig until they get past the permafrost. So all those beautiful homes along the river probably have to use outhouses!
Monday, June 2, 2008
The Long Awaited Artic Circle Trip
Bright (and I do mean bright!) and early (5:45 a.m.) we were standing in front of the RV park office waiting to be picked up by our Northern Alaska Driving Tour of the Artic Circle. We made several rest stops on the way. The first was at Joy, AK, at the Great Alaska Trading post run by the founding family (all 23 of them). Hours later we stopped to pick up the pre-ordered lunches at the Yukon River Camp, then continued on to the Finger Mountain Rest Stop (we ate on the bus to save some time). About 18 miles (an hour later!) we got to the Artic Circle. After photos of our driver, Laura, welcoming us to the Circle, she took group pictures for everyone.
The Dalton Highway (the Haul Road) is far worse then the Alaska Highway. It was built to be the supply road for the building of the pipeline. On this road truckers have the right of way - other traffic pulls over to let them pass both going the same direction or in opposite directions. The scenery changes from heavily forested miles in all directions to tundra with only a few trees as far as you can see and back again. We were all expecting to see much more snow than was there.
Once when we stopped, the door wouldn't open (it opened hydraulically out, down, then slide back alongside the bus. Frank got it to open and we had no further trouble with it. Then when we stopped at a rest area without toilets, the one in the bus wouldn't open! The door had gotten locked some how (probably all the bouncing and rocking along the road). Laura found the key and opened it for the relief of several passengers (including me!)
The Dalton Highway (the Haul Road) is far worse then the Alaska Highway. It was built to be the supply road for the building of the pipeline. On this road truckers have the right of way - other traffic pulls over to let them pass both going the same direction or in opposite directions. The scenery changes from heavily forested miles in all directions to tundra with only a few trees as far as you can see and back again. We were all expecting to see much more snow than was there.
Once when we stopped, the door wouldn't open (it opened hydraulically out, down, then slide back alongside the bus. Frank got it to open and we had no further trouble with it. Then when we stopped at a rest area without toilets, the one in the bus wouldn't open! The door had gotten locked some how (probably all the bouncing and rocking along the road). Laura found the key and opened it for the relief of several passengers (including me!)
Enjoying the Sights around Fairbanks
The overnight low was 41.
The sternwheeler, Riverboat Discovery III, left the dock at 8:45 a.m. to cruise down the Chena River. We stopped at the dog sled kennels of Susan Butcher to "talk" a while with the new owner, Jesse. Later we talked to Dixie, a native Indian, about curing salmon when at the summer fish camps. She filleted a large salmon and got it ready to smoke in about 30 seconds! Later she told us about the beading designs on native clothing and the significance. She has a chief's coat on display in the Native Arts museum of the Smithsonian. We also watched a bush pilot take off and land on a sand bar in the middle of the river, then he took off and landed on pontoons in the river.
The sternwheeler, Riverboat Discovery III, left the dock at 8:45 a.m. to cruise down the Chena River. We stopped at the dog sled kennels of Susan Butcher to "talk" a while with the new owner, Jesse. Later we talked to Dixie, a native Indian, about curing salmon when at the summer fish camps. She filleted a large salmon and got it ready to smoke in about 30 seconds! Later she told us about the beading designs on native clothing and the significance. She has a chief's coat on display in the Native Arts museum of the Smithsonian. We also watched a bush pilot take off and land on a sand bar in the middle of the river, then he took off and landed on pontoons in the river.
The Days are LOOOONNNNGGGG!
The days are getting longer and longer. Sundown was after midnight and sunup was around 3:30 a.m. And cold!! When we got up this morning it was all of 23 degrees.
After laundry was done, we took off for Fairbanks which is about 125 miles further north of Denali.
From the visitors center in downtown, we travelled to Pioneer Park(formerly Alaskaland) now owned by the Fairbanks North Star Borough.
We saw a vaudville version of the founding of Fairbanks that was really, really, good.
Sunset tonight is suppose to be at 12:01 a.m. and sunrise will be at 3:37 a.m. Forecast high is 61, the low 43.
After laundry was done, we took off for Fairbanks which is about 125 miles further north of Denali.
From the visitors center in downtown, we travelled to Pioneer Park(formerly Alaskaland) now owned by the Fairbanks North Star Borough.
We saw a vaudville version of the founding of Fairbanks that was really, really, good.
Sunset tonight is suppose to be at 12:01 a.m. and sunrise will be at 3:37 a.m. Forecast high is 61, the low 43.
Denali National Park
We were very lucky yesterday to get a campsite in the first (closest to the Wilderness Access Center where all the tours leave from) loop of Riley Campground.
We were also able to get seats on the 8 a.m. (they start at 7 a.m.!) six-hour tour up to Talkat. The bus driver was very informative without being too chatty. Right off we started seeing snowshoe hares all over the road and on both sides. The driver, Mark, warned us that it would be too dangerous for us if he tried to brake for them. It didn't take too long to spot our first moose, then 2 caribou. We also spotted two ptarmigans, the Alaska state bird, which according to Mark can't urinate because they have a silent P. Also we saw gulls, a mama horned owl with her two (maybe three) owlets in their nest really close to the bus, a grizzy who was too high up to really get a good look at, then a red fox slowly crossed the road in front of us then took off running. Several times we spotted eagles soaring around the mountain peaks. Dall sheep were everywhere once we got up over 3,000 feet. Just before we got to the turn around point of the tour, it started to snow, light flurries mostly. Right after getting back on the bus to return to the WAC, we saw a very large light brown grizzly meanering along the glacier track. Then later we saw two asleep on a hillside near the road. Then we saw a wolverine booking it across a snow covered field. He had crossed the road in front of us, then turned to look back, then ran some more, turned to look at us, ran some more. We could see him for a long time.
About half way back, a herd of caribou crossed the road in front of us. By this time the snow was getting thicker with fatter flakes. Just about the time we got back to the WAC, it had changed to rain. We decided to walk the 1/4 mile back to the campsite rather than wait half hour for the shuttle. We got back to the RV and the sun came out!!
We were also able to get seats on the 8 a.m. (they start at 7 a.m.!) six-hour tour up to Talkat. The bus driver was very informative without being too chatty. Right off we started seeing snowshoe hares all over the road and on both sides. The driver, Mark, warned us that it would be too dangerous for us if he tried to brake for them. It didn't take too long to spot our first moose, then 2 caribou. We also spotted two ptarmigans, the Alaska state bird, which according to Mark can't urinate because they have a silent P. Also we saw gulls, a mama horned owl with her two (maybe three) owlets in their nest really close to the bus, a grizzy who was too high up to really get a good look at, then a red fox slowly crossed the road in front of us then took off running. Several times we spotted eagles soaring around the mountain peaks. Dall sheep were everywhere once we got up over 3,000 feet. Just before we got to the turn around point of the tour, it started to snow, light flurries mostly. Right after getting back on the bus to return to the WAC, we saw a very large light brown grizzly meanering along the glacier track. Then later we saw two asleep on a hillside near the road. Then we saw a wolverine booking it across a snow covered field. He had crossed the road in front of us, then turned to look back, then ran some more, turned to look at us, ran some more. We could see him for a long time.
About half way back, a herd of caribou crossed the road in front of us. By this time the snow was getting thicker with fatter flakes. Just about the time we got back to the WAC, it had changed to rain. We decided to walk the 1/4 mile back to the campsite rather than wait half hour for the shuttle. We got back to the RV and the sun came out!!
Observations
People are walking around wearing tank tops, shorts, and flip flops even though it is only about 55 degrees in the sun. It's even colder in the shade, then add in the breeze! Brrr!!
Frank lost his set of keys after opening the RV when we again stopped at the WalMart this morning. We tore the RV apart looking for them. Luckily I had brought my set with me so while I was in the library, he went to Lowe's to have another set made. The new basement key doesn't work. We also found we did have a spare house key. I didn't think I had one with me.
One thing that is so odd here is the number of espresso huts everywhere! Even out in remote places along the highway, with nothing else around, sits an espresso hut.
Frank lost his set of keys after opening the RV when we again stopped at the WalMart this morning. We tore the RV apart looking for them. Luckily I had brought my set with me so while I was in the library, he went to Lowe's to have another set made. The new basement key doesn't work. We also found we did have a spare house key. I didn't think I had one with me.
One thing that is so odd here is the number of espresso huts everywhere! Even out in remote places along the highway, with nothing else around, sits an espresso hut.
From Homer back to Anchorage
Before leaving Homer, we took the scenic road out toward a Russian Farming Community. Coming back was the scenic view part with beautiful views of the mountains across the Kachemac Bay.
Retracing our route down, we were not far out of Homer when a moose started to cross the road in front of us. She ran along side for a while then retreated to the woods. We had been seeing eagles. A nest in a tree right next ot the road and a line of four or five eagles on a ridge along the shoreline.
We got to Anchorage during rush hour. We were headed to Wasilla to park overnight in the WalMart parking lot only to find signs posted every where saying no overnight parking - tow zone. As we had to get some shopping done, we went in anyway. The toilet paper was $2.88(I had paid $8+ in Homer for the exact same thing; then I saw all the scrapbooking Alaska stuff that I had paid for at various stopping places along the way was way cheaper! Kinda made me sick.
Retracing our route down, we were not far out of Homer when a moose started to cross the road in front of us. She ran along side for a while then retreated to the woods. We had been seeing eagles. A nest in a tree right next ot the road and a line of four or five eagles on a ridge along the shoreline.
We got to Anchorage during rush hour. We were headed to Wasilla to park overnight in the WalMart parking lot only to find signs posted every where saying no overnight parking - tow zone. As we had to get some shopping done, we went in anyway. The toilet paper was $2.88(I had paid $8+ in Homer for the exact same thing; then I saw all the scrapbooking Alaska stuff that I had paid for at various stopping places along the way was way cheaper! Kinda made me sick.
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